Manuela Lenoci
10 must-do things in the Tremiti Islands
Updated: Jun 21
We are in Puglia, in Gargano, off the Adriatic coast. in the archipelago so beloved by the artist Lucio Dalla
"How deep is the sea....:"
There must be a reason why the artist Lucio Dalla composed some of his most famous songs on these islands. The Tremiti Islands are still one of the most beautiful places in Italy. Little known by the people of Puglia themselves here you find a deep crystal sea with shades of blue and green that surprise you with every dive. I enjoyed the most beautiful sea of the Tremiti by renting a tender, by stopping at the most magical places, snorkeling, exploring the caves. There are so many of them, whose depths give you unimaginable vegetation and undersea rocks that are even more beautiful than what is visible on the surface.
Now also very easy to reach with NAVI TREMITI - From this site you can see all the opportunities and where to embark with daily departures to the Islands! NAVI TREMITI carries passengers from the ports of Peschici, Vieste and Rodi Garganico to the Tremiti Islands from late April to early October
In my column "A portata di Manu" I offer you ideas, experiences and itineraries, but also things to do if you come to these parts whether you are a foreign visitor or a tourist at home. In the article (next to each experience) are all the references for booking tickets or excursions or guided tours in the area .
If we forgot to mention something in this article write to us at apugliesearoundthewolrd@gmail.com Would like to tell us about your business or simply propose unique experiences? Do you organize events events and want to invite us?
We will be happy to visit you
Where are the TREMITI ISLANDS?
It is an archipelago of islands located off the coast of Gargano. The Tremiti Islands belong to the Province of Foggia, in the Region of Puglia They are an archipelago of extraordinary beauty located in the heart of the Adriatic Sea. The total size is about 3 sq. km. It consists of two inhabited islands: San Nicola and San Domino and three uninhabited Capraia (also called Caprara or Capperaia), Pianosa and Cretaccio. The Tremiti Islands municipality has about 500 inhabitants, is part of the Gargano National Park and is a Marine Nature Reserve. Populated, on the other hand, are the seabed, where you can find everything from groupers to moray eels, octopuses to giant mullet, sea bream to amberjack, colonies of red, yellow and black gorgonians.
Here you can enjoy boat trips, snorkeling and many other outdoor activities.
If you love the sea, you are in the right place. The archipelago is not at all fashionable, it is stuck in the 1980s although lately there are many open construction sites and renovation works to make the islands more usable for everyone, thanks also to the mega funding obtained from the Ministry of Cultural Heritage, Perhaps for this very reason, it remains unspoiled and boasts crystal clear waters.
How to reach the Tremiti Islands?
Among the companies. From here you can see all the opportunities and where to embark
Da questo sito NAVI TREMITI potete vedere tutte le opportunità e dove imbarcarvi con partenze giornaliere verso le Isole! Effettua il trasporto passeggeri dai porti di Peschici, Vieste e Rodi Garganico verso le Isole Tremiti da fine aprile agli inizi di ottobre, e le tariffe per le tratte A/R sono le seguenti:
- Adulti: 40€
- Ridotti (3-12 anni): 22€
- Bambini con meno di 3 anni: gratuito
Dal 3 agosto al 31 agosto, le tariffe aumentano a:
- Adulti: 44€
- Ridotti (3-12 anni): 23€
Gli orari di partenza sono:
- Vieste: 8:30
- Peschici: 8:50
- Rodi Garganico: 9:15
Il ritorno dalle Isole Tremiti è alle ore 16:35.
ALISCAFO PER LE TREMITI - It should be considered that only Termoli is active year-round. While the other ports operate from June 1st to September 20th for the summer season.
By Helicopter it is possible to reach the Tremiti Islands with Alidaunia his is a service that has an agreement with the Puglia Region, it is necessary to book well in advance, it makes scheduled flights 365 days a year on the route Foggia - Tremiti Islands. The helicopter departs daily from Foggia's "Gino Lisa" airport. The cost of the ticket varies depending on the season (high or low season). The approximate cost is 50 euros (air taxes and VAT included) in high season (July - August), 25 euros the rest of the year.
But what are the 10 must-do things in the Tremiti Islands?
I love the Tremiti Islands and have included them in my top list of the most beautiful places in the world. For some people it is just a day trip. Here the sea is amazing.
For me at least three to four days by boat is a regular stop I love to make every summer of my life. There are so many bays and caves to discover, which characterize it and make it unique, and they are always beautiful to see again.
The best of an island in my opinion is only experienced by staying there to sleep, when the hustle and bustle goes away.
I have been there 5 times and for a more intimate experience I preferred to stay the last time on San Nicola Island, which of the two inhabited islands is definitely the smaller.
Discovering caves, especially underground caves
During the day you go to the sea. By boat/dug boat is the best way to discover and explore the area looking for the coves inaccessible from land. Besides the well-known ones, Grotta del Sale, Grotta delle Viole, Grotta dell'Elefante, and Grotta delle Rondinelle that you can see in this updated INFOTREMITI site, there are many coves you will fall in love with; Drop anchor and relax exactly as soon as it happens. The underwater one is an experience not to be missed for anything in the world while vacationing in the Tremiti Islands. With the dinghy, anything seems possible: sleeping, swimming, snorkeling and feeling on a deserted island while appreciating the silence
SLEEPING ON THE ISLAND OF SAN DOMINO OR SAN NICOLA?
San Domino is the largest and most touristic island, so if you love going out in the evening, you will have bars and piano bars available here. The atmosphere is 80s style. Choose San Nicola if you love the quiet life and silence and especially if you like the idea of having an experience in contact with the islanders. In the years since I have been visiting the Tremiti Islands, I have stayed on both islands with different solutions. Follow your instincts and choose according to your mood of the moment. We stayed in San Nicola in Antonio's small apartments. Minimal but basic apartments with refrigerator and mini kitchen (it is not the comfort island even if you go to Hotel) but we had a great time. It feels like staying with a family. This island is perfect for those who like authenticity with no glitz, If you want to live in a medieval setting, with no evening events but just the sound of the sea or chatting with neighbors disconnecting with the world and reconnecting with yourself and nature, you are in the right place. Contact him by emailing him on my behalf antoniotremiti65@gmail.com
On where to sleep I have made contacts on the spot, which is the easiest way to find accommodation, or I recommend you check out this brochure dedicated to the Tremiti Islands TUTTOINTASCA.IT
In the past, I have also stayed in San Domino at the BB LE RONDINELLE .
Minimal rooms here, too, but completely surrounded by pine forest and vegetation. Excellent international breakfast. A nice option if you go in a group.
In the past I have also stayed at 'Hotel Kyrie a few meters from Cala Tramontana, which can be reached on foot via a footpath. The only time I have stayed on this island only for 1 night, with my sister, it was sold out and very expensive.
RENT A RAFT
We rented an inflatable boat in St. Nicholas with IN GOMMONE CON SIMONE
However, there are many companies that offer you rentals or excursions, located directly on the pier, in both Islands. They cartel among themselves. Therefore unless you go in low season, no one gives discounts.
The rental price varies depending on the season, on average you pay 80 euros for the whole day (until 6 p.m.) in low season while 120 euros in high season. The island is small and all activities are seasonal and familiar. Simone for example in the daytime sea entrepreneur, in the evening chef indeed "Master Chef" in his mother's restaurant DA ENRICHETTA seafood restaurant also in St. Nicholas, in my opinion the best on the island from all points of view..
DINING TO SAN NICOLA
As soon as you book your lodging on these islands, immediately reserve a table for dinner hoping to find at least one available in the 30-seat pastry restaurant DA ENRICHETTA at the foot of the Abbey..
Genuine but top-notch restaurant has maintained its simplicity despite a menu of the highest standards and sophistication. Family-run. As soon as you arrive Enrichetta immediately tells you the catch of the day that the sea offers, the price, and how she can cook it for you. She suggested scampi to us, and we had them in a sauce with spaghetti alla chitarra.
Go there. Enrichetta is the pastry chef, and she has a dessert menu worthy of a star: try the Neapolitan pastiera and cheesecake. Enrichetta's father helps at the tables and Simone in the kitchen. The fried cod simply melted in the mouth.
In San Nicola you can also eat very well at the ristorante Architiello da Carolina restaurant known for the quality of the excellently processed raw material, try and I guarantee you will not regret it, their classic but very tasty spaghetti with clams, a dish that is never missing from the menu and is the ultimate scarpetta.
TAKE THE CAB BOAT BETWEEN THE ISLANDS AT LEAST ONCE
For travel from San Nicola to San Domino and back depending on where you sleep and if you want to do some nightlife there is this very convenient service. They are only 450 m apart and are connected all day long by cab boats (from 6 € A/R during the day and 10 € A/R during the evening - From 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. the cab runs every hour. In the evening it is served at 7 to 8 p.m. and at 11 p.m. last ride) -
COOPERATIVE A.MAR.BLU (Maritime Agency) Water Taxi Service - St. Nicholas Island - tel. 0882 834487 - Cell.360/373527 348/0166961/60
ADMIRE THE BEAUTIFUL SUNSET AT SEA
From the highest point of the Abbey of St. Nicholas
EXPERIENCE A DAY ON THE FISHING BOAT WITH A COOK ON BOARD
My first time in the Tremiti was with my sister Federica, and the following year, I returned with office colleagues. We decided with my sister to spend a whole day aboard a fishing boat with the cook on board. A surreal and fantastic experience to say the least. It was in 2019
The following year I returned with colleagues and wanted to repeat the experience with them as well.
On the fishing boats (which you can catch from the San Domino pier) you can both sunbathe and enjoy the bounty of seafood, cooked directly on board. The formula on the fishing boats where I had the pleasure of having this experience is more or less similar. Mega table set for lunch with appetizer of bruschetta, urchins and fresh fish, mussels. First course pasta with fish and mussels and seafood, second course catch of the day.
In between white wine, seafood lunch and tours among the most beautiful coves in the archipelago, we enjoyed the day in the company of perfect strangers.
And yes, In the boat there are about 15 places available. The first time there were 2 of us, me and my sister. The second time with colleagues we were 5. In both cases we joined in. I recommend it to do at least once.
SHOPPING AT CONVENIENCE STORES ON THE ISLAND
Alle Isole tremiti è abitudine fare il pranzo a sacco da portare in barca o al mare sugli scogli.
Ci sono alcuni market interessanti, piccoli ma forniti dell'essenziale
- Market Fentini - trovate tutto per una buona spesa
SNORKELING NEAR THE SUBMERGED STATUE OF FATHER PIO
I had not brought the Go Pro, however, I assure you the excitement was great when I saw it with the mask on! I borrowed this picture from colleagues.
With her arms outstretched and looking skyward: this is the image I found underwater when I caught sight of the famous Padre Pio statue in the Tremiti Islands.
It was not so easy to spot it. Then diving in with mask and tube we made it.
The sculpture, made by Foggia-based sculptor Mimmo Norcia, was laid on a concrete base in the seabed of the island on Oct. 3, 1998, between Caprara and the Tremiti Island of San Nicola. It lies 13 m deep and was cleaned of fouling and algae in 2016 to restore its splendor. You immediately understand where it is because there is a cluster of boats nearby and people diving in hopes that the water is not murky. It is surreal to see numerous small fish swimming around it, almost as if they want to keep company with the Pugs' most beloved saint
The statue is truly imposing and striking: about 3 meters high, weighing 12.25 quintals of bronze, plus 110 quintals of base, with arms outstretched and looking skyward, as if inviting swimmers to join him for a fleeting greeting.
SEA BAPTISM OR DIVING
WHEREAS, I snorkel which I am a big fan of (with mask, tube and fins) but I have never dived as I am a big wimp.
However, it is one of the most popular activities to do in the Tremiti Islands because of its fantastic seabed to say the least.
I would like to point out the possibility of taking courses to get certified or simply approach the seabed with the wonderful BAPTISM OF THE SEA (at a cost of 80 euros) with AQUO DIVING . The baptism of the sea consists of a 40-minute dive completely attached to an experienced instructor who helps you with your breathing preventing any possible panic attacks.
In San Domino there is also a DIVING CENTER the formula is the same for them as well.
Always better to save this number too, in high season everything is always full
EXPLORING THE ISLAND OF SAN DOMINO: WALKING, BIKING, HIKING
San Domino is the largest island in the archipelago and the one with the most amenities for tourists. It is also the most important island, entirely covered with Mediterranean scrub, has only one sandy beach, Cala delle Arene (25 euros the location with 2 sunbeds and an umbrella) behind the harbor. Here are some of the island's most beautiful rocky coves that can also be reached via a marked hiking trail (for enthusiasts).
Appena arrivi al porto di San Domino, la salita per raggiungere il centro dell'isola è amara
Hai due chance.
Pagare 5 euro per un transfer che ti porta fino al centro dell'isola (scelta consigliata se hai bagagli e figli)
Fare la breve salita a piedi, tosta ma fattibile, dopo 15o mt diventa pianeggiante e regala una vista mozzafiato
A San Domino ci sono 5 hotel (Hotel Levante, Hotel La tramontana, Hotel Le Viole, Hotel Eden, Hotel Kyrie, Albergo La Pineta) e molteplici appartamenti o affittacamere o alloggi, modalità di abitazione per la vacanza più diffusa e utilizzata dai turisti dell'isola. Ci sono in questa isola diversi ristoranti, ma anche localini o baretti. C'è anche una bar che funge da discoteca per chi è alla ricerca di una vita notturna (La Fenice e A Furmicula).
Segnalo tra quelli provati:
- Capatosta - Ottimi Burger e Gin list, provate il London Dry con gin fatto da loro ai capperi
- L'altro Faro - consigliatissimo anche dagli isolani, il pesce è protagonista di questo posto
- La Fenice - Ottimo per cena ma anche per l'aperitivo. Provate lo "Scialatiello"
- Da Elio Fish Bar - Qui spopola il finocchietto tremitese. Ambiente molto friendly. Menù a base di pesce. Se riuscite assaggiate la lasagna ai frutti di mare.
Di giorno l’isola offre panorami unici con splendide cale e grotte: non perdete la cala delle Arene, Cala Matano, dove é ubicata la villa dell'artista Lucio Dalla che da qualche mese é affittabile.
Cala Spido - noi siamo arrivati in gommone è stupenda (cornice ricca di vegetazione in cui ho fatto il primo bagno) Cala degli Inglesi, Cala Tamariello.
San Domino è anche ricca di grotte come quella del Bue Marino, delle Viole o delle Rondinelle o Grotta e Cala dell'Elefante e Grotta Architiello
Una delle mie preferite è la Spiaggia dei Pagliai - da questo link potete vedere i video che ho fatto su questa Isola
Itinerari di trekking a San Domino
La macchia mediterranea ed i pini di Aleppo sono i protagonisti della vegetazione dell’isola. A San Domino se siete dei camminatori ed il caldo non vi fa paura, ci sono diversi percorsi di trekking, qualcuno l'ho praticato, altri li ho scoperti chiedendo informazioni ai locali. Tutti portano al faro, ma da diverse direzioni.
Faro di San Domino Si parte da un piccolo villaggio rurale nel centro dell'isola composto da abitazioni modeste in stile coloniale. Da qui dipartono 3 strade, quella centrale è indicata come “la strada della pineta”, conduce in mezzo alla foresta, dapprima in salita fino alla Cappella del Romito e poi in discesa fino al faro.
Il percorso di Ponente Da questo percorso passando per la pineta incontrate: Cala degli inglesi, Cala dei Benedettini, Punta Secca, la Grotta del Bue Marino e poi potete arrivare al faro seguendo un percorso costiero segnalato
Il percorso di Levante Questo itinerario si sviluppa sulla costa di levante e vi condurrà prima alla Grotta del Sale, poi alla Grotta delle Viole, Punta di Ponente, la Grotta delle Murene e poi dritti al faro.
Indossate scarpe DA TREKKING e portate con voi acqua, cibo e frutta, lungo il percorso non c sono punti di ristoro.
FARE UNA FOTO DALLA FINESTRA CHE DOMINA L'ISOLA DI SAN NICOLA
La quinta volta alle tremiti ho soggiornato nell'isola di San Nicola. E' il luogo in cui ho respirato la storia delle Isole Tremiti. Quando ci arrivi, la salita dal porto per arrivare nel borgo abitabile, è amara.
Ripida con una pavimentazione. Rifarla al contrario rischia di essere scivolosa.
Scomoda, ma l'impresa vale tutta la difficolta. La più tosta è la prima salita dopo di che indossando le sneakers tutto diventa più facile.
Qui c'è la Fortezza e l’Abbazia di Santa Maria a Mare. (oggi un cantiere aperto per via dei finanziamenti ricevuti dal ministero dei beni culturali)
Prima della fortezza, una finestra che domina l'isola, tappa obbligatoria per una foto.
Queste sono le attrazioni principali oltre al Torrione del cavaliere del Crocifisso e la misteriosa tomba di Diomede su cui sono sorte tante leggende. Da qui ho potuto ammirare alcuni dei tramonti più belli . Non mancano le cale e le bellezze regalate dal mare, ma in nessun altro angolo delle Isole Tremiti potrete godere del panorama unico che si staglia davanti ai vostri occhi salendo alla Fortezza.
Per ogni curiosità, inviti o segnalazioni, scrivimi tranquillamente qui sul mio blog
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